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By the costume we may often know the man. The cowboy's costume was harmonious with its surroundings. It was planned upon lines of such stern utility as to leave no possible thing which we may call dispensable. The typical cowboy costume could hardly be said to contain a coat and waistcoat. The heavy woolen shirt, loose and open at the neck, was the common wear at all seasons of the year excepting winter, and one has often seen cowboys in the winter-time engaged in work about the yard or corral of the ranch wearing no other cover for the upper part of the body but one or more of these heavy shirts. If the cowboy wore a coat he would wear it open and loose as much as possible. If he wore a "vest" he would wear it slouchily, hanging open or partly unbuttoned most of the time. There was a reason for this slouchy habit. The cowboy would say that the vest closely buttoned about the body would cause perspiration, so that the wearer would quickly chill upon ceasing exercise. If the wind were blowing keenly when the cowboy dismounted to sit upon the ground for dinner, he would button up his waistcoat and be warm. If it were very cold he would button up his coat also.
There was no prouder soul on earth than the cowboy. He was proud of being a horseman and had a contempt for all human beings who walked. On foot in his tight-toed boots he was lost; but he wished it to be understood that he never was on foot. If we rode beside him and watched his seat in the big cow saddle we found that his high and narrow heels prevented the slipping forward of the foot in the stirrup, into which he jammed his feet nearly full length. If there was a fall, the cowboy's foot never hung in the stirrup. In the corral roping, afoot, his heels anchored him. So he found his little boots not so unserviceable and retained them as a matter of pride. Boots made for the cowboy trade sometimes had fancy tops of bright-colored leather. The Lone Star of Texas was not infrequent in their ornamentation. The curious pride of the horseman extended also to his gloves. The cowboy was very careful in the selection of his gloves. They were made of the finest buckskin, which could not be injured by wetting. Generally they were tanned white and cut with a deep cuff or gauntlet from which hung a little fringe to flutter in the wind when he rode at full speed on horseback.
The wearer might sometimes stiffen the brim by passing a thong through a series of holes pierced through the outer edge. He could depend upon his hat in all weathers. In the rain it was an umbrella; in the sun a shield; in the winter he could tie it down about his ears with his handkerchief.
Loosely thrown about the cowboy's shirt collar was a silk kerchief. It was tied
in a hard knot in front, and though it could scarcely be said to be devoted to
the uses of a neck scarf, yet it was a great comfort to the back of the neck
when one was riding in a hot wind. It was sure to be of some bright color,
usually red. Modern would-be cowpunchers do not willingly let this old kerchief
die, and right often they over-play it. For the cowboy of the "movies," however,
let us register an unqualified contempt. The real range would never have been
safe for him.
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A peculiar and distinctive feature of the
cowboy's costume was his "chaps" (chaparejos). The chaps were two very wide and
full-length trouser-legs made of heavy calfskin and connected by a narrow belt
or strap. They were cut away entirely at front and back so that they covered
only the thigh and lower legs and did not heat the body as a complete leather
garment would. They were intended solely as a protection against branches,
thorns, briers, and the like, but they were prized in cold or wet weather.
Sometimes there was seen, more often on the southern range, a cowboy wearing
chaps made of skins tanned with the hair on; for the cowboy of the Southwest
early learned that goatskin left with the hair on would turn the cactus thorns
better than any other material. Later, the chaps became a sort of affectation on
the part of new men on the range; but the old-time cowboy wore them for use, not
as a uniform. In hot weather he laid them off.
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